Ascent Notes for: Gentle Ben - 5.10a Average Rating : 4.00/5

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would recommend, just watch for some loose stuff towards the bottom.

With the set-up so much easier with the new bolted anchors, this is becoming more popular, as it has deserved.

The start is very similar imo to 'Howdy Dude', followed by vertical 5.6 jugs. If you are going to be able to finish, it is almost a one-move climb. And I almost did not make it over the arete, and had to body jam some to get up the overhang notch. When the rock is not so cold, will try to get better.

fun transition around the corner

The route is 5.10a when you start left of the arete, traverse right up to the roof, and then traverse back left to the thinner face to top it out. Great climb! The variations can be easier or harder. Starting on the right face and then traversing left just before the roof is more like 5.8, and starting left and staying left is more like 5.10a+. This is a classic route at Pilot. Sling the boulder, supplement with gear if you please, and have at it!

The route is 5.10a when you start left of the arete, traverse right up to the roof, and then traverse back left to the thinner face to top it out. Great climb! The variations can be easier or harder. Starting on the right face and then traversing left just before the roof is more like 5.8, and starting left and staying left is more like 5.10a+. This is a classic route at Pilot. Sling the boulder, supplement with gear if you please, and have at it!

Rig using a boulder wrap and maybe a couple pieces of gear for backup. There are a couple ways to do it, you can either start to the right and then move left, which is easier, or you can start on the left face move around the corner to the right, and then move back left after pulling the first small overhang. Really fun climb, the hardest crux is the face climbing towards the top.

The arete is really fun

rating this a 5.9 because I went off route a little to the right and then back to the left and up