Ascent Notes for: Kor Route - 5.11a Average Rating : 4.00/5

Maurice Horn and I finished what we had started a year ago, when we bailed at the base of the final pitch. We didn't get started from the car till after ten, not realizing how long the drive out from Moab would take. (3+hours in an old Ford van.)
This time we had a campsite at Airport and were climbing early. Cam Burns' guide was accurate and helpful, we thought, and though the first chimney is indeed dirty, it's decent climbing, and the higher you go on the route, the better it gets.
We did not find the fixed pin Burns mentions on the last pitch, and in fact may have gone astray on that pitch, weaving through some overhangs back and forth till I spotted bolts way off to my left. A 'crawl' left along a ledge got me to the first bolt, a crappy star drive, but you can quickly clip a modern bolt, which is a good feeling. Then an angle in a hole and finally a half-driven bugaboo, which is the end of the line for fixed gear. If that ever pulls.... you have to do some tricky free climbing off the bug, up and left to a nice ledge. Whew! Ascend the short slab above to the base of the summit blob, and climb up and down the easy summit structure just right of the rap anchors.
We added a chain to the modern bolt at the summit rap, and with some equalized star drives, it felt solid. Four raps to the ground, the last two very long. We had 60m ropes.
We enjoyed the climb alot, and thought it not too loose by desert standards. The last pitch free variation appeared to be left of the bolts, though we didn't examine it. The last pitch is definitely the crux.