Ascent Notes for: Black Dike - WI5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

Been looking forward to this route for a few seasons now. Finally got on it and it did not disappoint. I led the second pitch. Went a little too high on the rock traverse, and it was hard. Insecure hooking and feet were tenuous, but made it through. Should have gone lower...it would have been easier. Either way, great day out. Ice was pretty hooked out, but the climbing was fun. 7 hours car to car.

This climb had me gripped on solo even though the conditions were pretty favorable. Thin traverse protected with manky pin and tied off ice screw. Upper section had thin ice but plastic and took a tool well. Was well and truly gripped before reaching upper belay.

This corner never gets sun in the winter. Ice was hard as cement. Book has it as a 5-, but its not that steep. Mega classic. swapped leads, led easier pitches.

led 1st and 3rd pitches, with G. Johnson leading Hassig's Direct.

done it w/ slush, done it w/ rock, done it fat.

The second pitch was pretty much all verglas and the rock traverse was much harder than expected but protectable. In thin years bring a few pins.

Lead w/ Doug

AW, IT

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