Ascent Notes for: Fantasy - Direct Finish - 5.10b Average Rating : 3.67/5

Just a little dirty but lots of fun.

Not sure where RC.com's 10c and PG13 ratings come from. The pitch is a one-move wonder at the low end of 5.10. The gear is bomber and plentiful, and if you blow the crux up high, you fall into nice, soft air. The climbing is so-so on rock that's higher quality than it looks from down low, and the pitch is very short. Still, I think it's a worthwhile route, especially if you want multipitch climbing at the New and have already climbed the amazing first pitch (5.8). The best part is looking down through your stems at nothing but air! I combined the two pitches into one, lowered and cleaned to the anchor atop the first pitch, and then rappelled from there, because I wasn't sure a 60-meter rope would reach from the top.

The climb is straightforward until the corner. Small tiered roofs with good gear every 3-4ft. Corner very small stems, but a solid rest before you get to it. Last two moves are the scariest as there is a very tiny cam placement and loose grass on top. Heard it's been cleaned up and someone installed shuts there.. would make the top-off easier.. and probably give it a 10b rating.