Ascent Notes for: Moby Grape - 5.8 popular Average Rating : 4.85/5

Great climb ( scary at times ) long and full of every style of climbing. Started up Reppy's as the direct start, well worth it. Came back 2 weeks later and did the whole thing again.

Great time, we met a guy in the parking lot who offered to join our party and lend us his experience and beta which proved invaluable.

One of my favorite routes I've done. Split leads with partner evenly. Some fun stuff beyond the last pitch you can rap off, but certainly not enough to justify the long/nasty descent. I wouldn't bother with the stuff above pitch six again.

a couple real heady pitches. Got a little lost on the 6th pitch. Great route.

My foot popped off while pulling the triangular roof. The rope slid along the serrated edge of the roof (I was following) and was cut through the sheath to the core. Lots of white core showing, some of it frizzy from the edge. I tied in above the core shot and actually enjoyed the rest of the climb. Only later did I replay that moment in my head and, ahem, give it some thought. 5th pitch (Finger) is a gem. Just watch the roof move.

The path down can be tricky to find... watch out for falling rock on the climb up!

Led all the 5.8 pitches after my fellow climber opted out of the Finger of Fate pitch, which made that pitch the mental crux for me. Once I belly flopped onto the Finger, we were golden. There are some very tricky moves on this climb, to be sure.

I have been climbing in NH for 9 years and finally did it (on my 39th birthday). This route is great! We did it in 4 pitches through the Finger of Fate pitch, not the 6 described. After that we went right not left which put us on the other side of the big pillar. The cliff was pretty wet up left, so I don't think it was doable, even if I did know where to go. We finished up the regular finish, not Kurt's corner. One way to NOT get stuck behind parties: Start late. We started at about 12:30 p.m. We did end up losing the trail down to the Helipad so we had to bushwhack a bit. Sorry, Tiff ;) One more note on the climb: I don't think this is a 5.8 for a 5.8 leader.

amazing! w/eb

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