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Three Doves - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.36/5 Average Rating : 4.36 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 284
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Rock
Standard Gunks rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.86/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.09/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Start: Between On Any Monday and Annie Oh! at the right side of a big block. Pitch 1: Climb past the right side of the block and up the face, passing the first overhang on the left and the second overhang on the right. Climb the bulging face (crux) and then scramble up the the huge pine tree belay rap-station (5.8). Pitch 2: Scramble up the blocks on the right and up the face to a ledge with a small pine tree. Diagonal up left to a small left-facing corner, and up to the big overhang. Traverse right to the diagonal crack and up the crack to the top (rap bolts and chains) (5.8+). Grade is 5.8+ in some guide books, 5.9 in others.

Submitted by: interniq on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Views: 2327
Route ID: 38585

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: cracklover on 2003-12-26 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Late December afternoon, sun going down. So cold that I took a whipper on p1 (10 feet on the pin) after my hands turned to insensate blocks of ice. I was about 40 feet up when I ran into a patch of handholds that were coated in a thin film of water/ice that had dripped from icicles before we lost the sun. Within minutes, my hands were almost completely useless. But I was close to the end, so I kept climbing. Around 20 feet higher I hit the crux - it was little crimpers with a big reach to the next hold. It was hard to tell if my hands were on the crimpers properly, because with no feeling in my hands, I was placing my hands completely by visually inspecting them to see if they were in the right shape and on the rock correctly, and the crimpers were high up where I couldn't see them. I spent a long time hanging on those crimpers until I knew I had them properly. Then I couldn't tell if my hands were getting tired or not (I knew I should be feeling the burn, but wasn't feeling anything). After I fell, I shoved my hands in my pits to warm them for a few minutes. The second time through the crux was no problem at all, as I was able to feel my hands enough to get my body in the right position for the next move. Trip report if you're interested: http://groups.google.com/groups?dq=&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&group=rec.climbing&safe=off&selm=bsl30b%24940%241%40reader2.panix.com

Added: 2003-12-26