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Rock (Trad)
PG13
4
pro to 3", 2 pitons to clip up the dihedral leading up to the real horn, gear anchors
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Description:
A fun upper pitch just to the left of Open Book. Get up to the big ramp left of "Traitor Horn" via Coffin Nail or first two pitches of Jensen's Jaunt. Belay left of the "Traitor Horn" to experience the thin ledge traverse, or right of the "Traitor Horn" (with a little 5.8 move) so belayer can maintain eye contact with the leader going up the dihedral crack to pull the roof and over onto the real horn. Rejoins last pitch of Jensen's Jaunt to the topDescent Options:
walkoff via friction descent
Submitted by: baja_java on 2006-08-29
Last Modified: 2009-09-21
Views: 3551
Route ID: 5115
Ascent Note:
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Onsight ascent by:
Ascent Note
I had never climbed this early classic. Tracy and I decided to make an early run in April and got snowed off (It had been so sunny when we started we both wished we had worn shorts!) It actually started hailing and it was hard to build rappel anchors with nuts because the p2 crack was filling so fast with snow. We left quite a few slings and nuts, and I don't like getting my but kicked, so I went back a few weeks later and took another run. No snow, but the gear was long gone. I ended up going up the crack near the fixed pin, instead of literally climbing the 'real' horn. I'm not sure if that cheats the grade or not.
Witnessed by: Tracy Young, Tom Anderson
Added: 2002-05-04
Added: 2002-05-04
