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Rock
Stoppers, 1 set of cams to 3 inches
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Description:
One of the 50 classics, and with good reason. Climbs the center of the south face above Sky Pond. Done in 7-8 pitches.Pitch 1 Climb an easy pitch to a prominent chimney 5.4.
Pitch 2 Climb the chimney and belay on a chockstone 5.5
Pitch 3 Climb up and left out of the chimney to a huge ledge 5.7
Pitch 4 Climb up and right to a fixed piton belay on a small ramp 5.7
Pitch 5 Head right from the belay and climb up to a nice finger and hands crack. Continue up and right and belay as high as possible. 5.8 crux pitch
Pitch 6 - Climb the steep face above eventually heading left to the narrow edge. Belay high at a small ledge(the Pizza Pan ledge) 5.7
Pitch 7 - Climb directly up and then left to the edge. You can reach the summit in one long pitch. 5.7
The last two pitches are tricky to protect(though not dangerous). This beta is using 60 meter ropes-you may need to break it up more if using 50s, but you get great belay ledges at every pitch with 60s.
Descent - walk across the tiny summit ridge and rap from fixed anchors. 5 or 6 double rope raps get you to the ground-just be sure not to rap into the heinous loose gully. Also, don't even think about rapping into the Gash and walking around - no fun at all. This is a simply outstanding route.
Submitted by: fanederhand on 2003-09-15
Views: 2673
Route ID: 5731
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Added: 2001-07-04
