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Buckeye Testpiece 5.6 R -

Average Rating = 2.75/5 Average Rating : 2.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
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Trad ( almost none )
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Climb well featured but poorly protected face 10 feet to the right of "Strick 9"

Submitted by: tradrenn on 2006-09-25
Views: 1013
Route ID: 79963

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: drfelatio on 2007-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Develop your lead head!

Kinda lame? Grow a pair! The climbing is easy but like the description says, protection is scant. I ran out the last 20 or so feet (its a 50-60ft route). The prospect of a groundfall from that height makes even a 5.6 scary. Just focus on the climb, remind yourself you're on a 5-frickin-6 and that you're not going to fall and you'll be fine.

Make sure you set a bomber directional at the bottom because if you fall your belayer had better be running away from the wall to take up slack. You'll need the directional to keep from zippering.

Added: 2007-05-02