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Joe Herbst, Rick Wheeler
Rock (Trad)
PG13
6
standard rack to #4 camalot- a big piece may reduce the stress on pitch 3, but isnt necessary.
800
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Description:
This spectacular route lies on the southern part of the Brownstone Wall, high above Juniper Canyon. Approach via Juniper Canyon, the route starts just right of a blocky section of white rock below the obvious dihedral above.Pitch 1: Climb the crack to the ramp above, then step left to belay below the roof. 150', 5.6
Pitch 2: Climb left for 15', then up to the lip of the roof, then cross right and up a few feet to a bolted belay. 60', 5.7R. Variation- Climb straight up, through the roof, to the bolted belay. 20', 5.10aR
Pitch 3: Head up the corner on the left, eventually gaining the perfect dihedral seen from below. Ascend this for 100' to a good ledge. 180', 5.8Pitch 4: Tunnel through the chimney above, heading left when options present themselves. Climb through a hole that lands you on a very nice ledge. 100', 4th class.
Pitch 5: Climb the low angle arete on the left on the red rock above (no pro, 5.4), eventually gaining a nice crack. Climb this to a ledge below an obvious roof system. 100', 5.7
Pitch 6: Climb up the slab to the roof, go through the roof, then climb up for 80' to a good ledge and belay. 120', 5.7
From here, head straight up for 100' to the unroping spot on 3rd class terrain. Stop and enjoy the views, then head up further, following cairns, to the descent.
Descent Options:
Descend by heading west, then south and dropping into the gunsight. Ignore the rap slings at the notch- they are not needed. Work down the gully, evenutally making one short rappel (dont rap all the way down the chimney- it eats ropes). Once you hit the l
Submitted by: fanederhand on 2007-03-23
Views: 2375
Route ID: 9915
Ascent Note:
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Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
Added: 2001-10-15
