Routes : Reviews
Comments: Show | Hide
Premier Sponsor:
|
Rock (Trad)
G
3
Double rack to Rack to 4", stoppers, and an optional #6 camalot. Take 3-8 blue camalots.
350
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
Start 40 feet right of the scramble towards N. Chimney at a prominent long right facing corner. (p. 1: 150 feet, 5.11-) This is the pitch you brought all those blue cams for. Jam, stem, and fight up the sustained corner crack to a rest under a small roof. Continue up to a stance, undercling the flake above to the right, and make a committing layback up to a good ledge and bolted belay. (p. 2: 70 feet, 5.10) Watch your ankles on this one. Make hard moves off the belay up a right-leaning calcite encrusted crack to a stance in a pod. Pull through on the crack above, trend left towards a rest at some dinosaur tracks. Continue up to a good bolted stance. (p. 3: 140 feet, 5.10) Walk right to a crack system, climb up to the hanging flake. Continue up an right, following a wide crack system that eases towards the summit chimney.Descent Options:
Rap the route with double ropes.
Submitted by: joe on 2009-05-03
Views: 2855
Route ID: 5528
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
should be downgraded...
Having seen the first pitch rated from 11a to 11c i was a bit surprised by how easy the so-called crux was. You don't need to lie-back\undercling for more than two moves (and that's just moving your feet). after that there are plenty of good calcite crystals for feet and you can jam the rest.
if that route was in Sedona or Paradise forks it'd be 5.10
if that route was in Sedona or Paradise forks it'd be 5.10
Added: 2006-11-28
