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Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste, and Joe Herbst (1978)
Rock
G
13
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
1600
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Description:
Called a grade V, Epi (5.9) is usually done in a long day. You can find topo and adequate pitch description in Swain's Red Rocks Select. (supertopo has very accurate topos as well) Swain describes the route in 18 pitches but with a 60m rope, a competent team can do it it 10-12 pitches. The most famous element of the climb is the 300 feet of 5.9 chimney. All belays as per the Supertopo plus a couple others are bolted. The belay after the roof is not bolted (one bolt is there for pro/redirect)- This belay takes medium cams and/or smallish stoppers and cams, but takes a minute to find it. Enjoy this one, it's listed as a North American Classic for a reason!
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Views: 6351
Route ID: 14093
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Simul Ascent
If your party consists of solid 5.9 leaders, I suggest simul-ing as much as possible. We did this route in 5 pitches and could have done it in one fewer pitch had we not ran into a very nice Canadian couple near the top. If your confident in chimneys and don't mind running it out, you could theoretically have the first leader climb all the way through the crux and hit the belay shortly thereafter (as long as you have at least 20m of rope between the climbers). That way, the second doesn't have to worry about ripping the leader off if s/he pops out of the chimney. If you do it this way, it works quite well to take a single 60m half rope, have one climber tie into the middle of the rope and have the other climber tie into both ends. Apparently the record is approx 2 hours -- a bit outta my leauge, and quite a proud accomplishment to gun for!
Added: 2006-11-29
