Routes : Reviews
Comments: Show | Hide
Premier Sponsor:
|
M. Rangel, M. Geikenjoyner
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
G
5
recommend: med nuts + single set to #4; lg hex optional. 14 quickdraw/runners
500
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
It's 5 pitches total up the South face of SugarLoaf(aka Jap Head). Approach (30min)from Soldier Pass trailhead, turn R on Jordan trail, then fork L on Ciebola Pass trail. 100yrds from the fork cross one drainage then follow the next one to slick rock up to the base. Route begins on the right side of a large buttress forming a toe on the east face. P1: 5.10 direct steep slabby start then 5.9 corner (bolt); or do the runout 5.6 traversing start to miss the crux at the bottom. Ascend easy cracks to a bolt at the end, stay left to gain the ledge. P2:Sporto! (11 clips) start uses hidden holds on left arete; crux (5.11a) near finish, think thin slab (optional green cam for finish but nobody takes one). P3: Traverse right about 20' to varied cracks with 3 bolts in between to the bottowm of the crescent (5.9). P4: Great pitch starts as a wild arching dihedral that turns into a roof. Up face (large hex helps) to bolt then gear in dihedral until it becomes a roof then pass 4 bolts and a cam at the end. Belay at end of roof. Pitch 5: up slab to bolt then crack to top (5.8) Double rope rap or single 70m. Second rappel anchor is not on the route. Stay right to reach third rap anchor.Descent Options:
double ropes or single 70m
Submitted by: markguycan on 2009-06-27
Views: 1410
Route ID: 63786
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Onsight ascent by:
Ascent note
This poorly equipped route takes a nice line up Japhead, but unfortunately the climbing is mostly on choss. If one were actually to clean the route of all the loose rock, friable flakes and sugar rock, there wouldn't be much left to climb. Also, despite having a number of bolts, the climbing is necky and committing at times and some of the anchor placements leave you exasperated. Nice summit.
Added: 2006-12-23
