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Smegma Deluxe - 5.11d

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 33
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Michael LaPlante
Rock (Sport)
G
1
6 Bolts
40
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

The best route in the Original Area, this line ascends some really amazingly featured rock. Up to the 3rd bolt it's maybe 10a, but the next 10 feet demand a great sequence of inobvious balance moves using hidden holds. The climbing above the crux is also great, but easier (mid 5.10). The route is well-protected, with clean falls and good clipping stances. The climb is the nearly all the way at the east (right) end of the crag. Look for the line of bolts immediately left of an obvious body-length roof.

Descent Options:

Rap/lower off the two welded cold shuts at the top, or an easy and short walk-off to your right.

Submitted by: alexnees on 2007-03-25
Views: 557
Route ID: 84067

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: alexnees on 2007-03-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Best climb at the crag

A great climb, my favorite at Mentmore so far. Fun start, amazing balancy crux, good climbing above.

Added: 2007-03-12