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Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste, and Joe Herbst (1978)
Rock
G
13
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
1600
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Description:
Called a grade V, Epi (5.9) is usually done in a long day. You can find topo and adequate pitch description in Swain's Red Rocks Select. (supertopo has very accurate topos as well) Swain describes the route in 18 pitches but with a 60m rope, a competent team can do it it 10-12 pitches. The most famous element of the climb is the 300 feet of 5.9 chimney. All belays as per the Supertopo plus a couple others are bolted. The belay after the roof is not bolted (one bolt is there for pro/redirect)- This belay takes medium cams and/or smallish stoppers and cams, but takes a minute to find it. Enjoy this one, it's listed as a North American Classic for a reason!
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Views: 6351
Route ID: 14093
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
fun climb
Did this climb with Kostas. We were told to not get caught behind slower parties so we decided to show up there kinda early. How early? Our wake up was at 2:50am and we were at the base of the route at 5am. We spent 8.5 hours on route and were on top of the tower by 9am.
With reference to the supertopo topo. We 'soloed' the 5.4x section and then started from there.
I felt the 2nd pitch short chimney section (5.6) was the most awkward while the actual chimney climbing in the tower was much less sustained than what I was expecting. The first chimney pitch (3rd pitch of the climb) in the tower is kinda slick so I only ended up doing a few chimney moves before starting to stem with a heal toe and a fist jam. The second chimney pitch (4th pitch) had a bulge near the top which I felt was the definite crux of the route as we ended up doing some weird chicken wing/squirming to get up it. The third chimney pitch was the easiest if you face the tower as there are giant holds. Make sure you man up and go for the bolt off of the belay on the last chimney pitch and don't enter the cam graveyard deep inside.
The climbing was cruiser above the tower. We led pitch 6 to the tiop of the elephant trunk and then linked pitches 7 & 8. We simuled pitches 12-14 easily and then unroped at that point.
We summitted at 1:40pm. Good fun.
I led pitches 3,5,7,8,10, and the simuling on 12-14
With reference to the supertopo topo. We 'soloed' the 5.4x section and then started from there.
I felt the 2nd pitch short chimney section (5.6) was the most awkward while the actual chimney climbing in the tower was much less sustained than what I was expecting. The first chimney pitch (3rd pitch of the climb) in the tower is kinda slick so I only ended up doing a few chimney moves before starting to stem with a heal toe and a fist jam. The second chimney pitch (4th pitch) had a bulge near the top which I felt was the definite crux of the route as we ended up doing some weird chicken wing/squirming to get up it. The third chimney pitch was the easiest if you face the tower as there are giant holds. Make sure you man up and go for the bolt off of the belay on the last chimney pitch and don't enter the cam graveyard deep inside.
The climbing was cruiser above the tower. We led pitch 6 to the tiop of the elephant trunk and then linked pitches 7 & 8. We simuled pitches 12-14 easily and then unroped at that point.
We summitted at 1:40pm. Good fun.
I led pitches 3,5,7,8,10, and the simuling on 12-14
Added: 2007-05-15
