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Swallow Crack - 5.6 popular

Average Rating = 3.58/5 Average Rating : 3.58 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
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Rock (Trad)
G
1
Standard rack: larger nuts, cams to 3"
90
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 2.78/5
  Scenery 4.22/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

Look for an obvious crack that goes nearly all the way up. It's has some pretty wide sections and has a face climbing start on top of a small buttress. The top of the route is unprotectable and kind of runout to the chains. Suggest bringing shoes to walk down the backside unless you want to leave a rap sling. --- VALYGRL's edits: walk off, don't rap. "Runout" is maybe 15 feet of 5.2. RicardoL's edit: the guidebook shows 2 fixed piton -- after the first one, you'll also find a nut that has been hopelessly stuck, and the the 2nd piton has been replaced by a bolt. playouts1de's edit: That nut wasnt that hard to pull....and I thought it safer to pull the frayed nut as opposed to leaving it for future use/failure. Its on my rear view mirror if anyone wants to reclaim it ;) MattL edit: There is an easy rappel for this route - about 20 feet to the right there is a giant boulder above the ledge with 2 bolts and rap rings. A 60m rope just barely reaches the ground at the start of the climb. Top-roping this route can be tricky due to a bit of a swing - suggest using slings with the fixed pitons as directionals to top-rope. * I am the proud owner of so called "Stuck" nut. haha

Descent Options:

Rap from chains or walk off.

Submitted by: ricardol on 2007-01-15
Last Modified: 2013-01-06
Views: 2931
Route ID: 12767

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rockwizard on 2007-06-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Straightforward

Easy, solid holds. An exciting full pitch climb. End of crack is barely runout with newer bolt at second piton. Don't walkoff, 60m rope rappels on bolts from nearby boulder at topout. Would climb it again!

Added: 2007-06-07