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Warren Harding, Jim Ohrenschall, 1954
Rock
PG13
3
cams: 1 ea .6-1", 2 ea 1.25-3" (9-10" optional)
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Description:
"This is a classic old-school route for three reasons: it takes an obvious line, involves some spooky chimney climbing, and was put up by Warren Harding. The first pitch is the psychological and physical crux and features 5.8 squeeze chimney with a 50-foot runout (can be protected with 9-10" pieces). The second and third pitches are much more moderate and well-protected. The third pitch has a brief section of 5.7 face before an easy gully to a notch. Belay here and then do a short tunnel-through to the west side. For an alternate finish, stay on the east side and take the intimidating 5.8 stemming finish (look for the bolt and move right). Walk off to descend." ~ McNamara
Submitted by: pierredestcroix on 2008-03-26
Views: 1780
Route ID: 79021
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Don't be scared away
Although the pitons below the crux are probably not worth much, the crux is definitely psychological, so they work fine in this regard. Much easier than it looks, the face holds on the left wall of the chimney make all the difference. Took a #5 Friend and didn't place it. Other pitches are fun, except tunnel-through.
Added: 2007-06-08
