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Rock
Medium to large Cams or nuts.
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Description:
The best way to climb The Classic is to start out on the 5.7 first pitch of Reunion. Climb this to a good ledge with a tree (as for regular route). Pitch 2) Instead of climbing the Classic Chimney, jam the nice hand crack straight up the wall, then continue up the nice 5.9 Crack Lover's variation (only a couple of moves). Scramble up right and belay below a right-facing flake (save a big cam for the belay). Pitch 3) Thrutch your way up the flake, step right to gain a nice 12" wide ramp running up the wall to the right. At the end of the ramp, step across to the main corner. You can climb to the top of the corner where the Flying Buttress meets the main wall, but it's better to go up the corner just a bit and then break right and up in an easy crack, angling across the Flying Buttress to it's far end. Belay here. Pitch 4) Cross the knife edge of the top of the Flying Butt to the main wall and take either the High Exposure Exit (6+) of the Beaver Cleaver (8+) to the top of the wall. All excellent pitches!
Submitted by: steelmonkey on 2004-02-15
Views: 2193
Route ID: 9896
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Truely a Classic
Did the true classic route. Pitch 2 is a classic fun chimney. P3 start of the flake hard thin moves way to stick it Jodie! The high exposure across the traverse on bolts to exit is way cool and very exposed. Beautiful views.
Added: 2007-09-18
