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Solar Slab - 5.6 popular

Average Rating = 4.45/5 Average Rating : 4.45 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 6
Premier Sponsor:
Joe Herbst, Tom Kaufman, Larry Hamilton
Rock
8
PG. Gear to a #3 camalot.
1000
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.23/5
  Rock Quality 4.53/5
  Scenery 4.73/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

If you want to summit, its a good one. Descent: There are 2 options. The first takes about 2 hours if you are fast, up to 4 if you are slow or have rope problems. The second can be done in 2 hours if you know the way, 3 hours if you don't. 1) Take two 60m ropes with you on the way up, and take the rap route that is off to the right at the top of the 7th pitch, by the tree (note: if you summit, it is possible to 4th class back to the rap route by heading down and to your left if you are facing the canyon. One small step down and a bit of traversing up canyon brings you back to the rap route. 2) From the summit of Solar Slab, head north/west along the rim, looking for some cairns. Follow the ledge around and left, then do some downclimbing to a pair of bolts. There are ample cairns pointing the path. A single rope rap takes you to a pair of bolts about 40' down. From these bolts, rap to the climbers left to a large sloping ledge. Walk to the end of the ledge for a third rap. From there, one more rap from a tree gets you to the Painted Bowl. From here, head toward the IBM boulder in the distance, staying high. After passing the boulder, work your way down to the wash and head east to the car. DO NOT GO EAST FROM THE SUMMIT. This descent is notorious for being epic, heinous, and very difficult to do (especially in the dark!). Those wanting a CTC speed time on Solar may consider this option, but for the rest of us, take the Orpheus descent. Edit: As of 10/15/04, the Rappel Station at the TOP of the seventh pitch that was in the TREE is missing. For those rappelling: You must now downclimb about 20' from the terrace to a pair of chains near the top of the route. EDIT (2): The rappel slings on Solar Slab were replaced on 12.21.04

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-07-18
Views: 5372
Route ID: 11346

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stamplis on 2007-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars _

Fabulous - might be the longest route I've ever done. The day we climbed the winds were blowing insanely up at the top. I got knocked off my feet while walking towards the descent. The free-soloist who passed us near the top was certainly getting his money worth. The descent (Painted Bowls) was easy to find and follow but is looong and would suck in the dark - give yourself plenty of time (3 hours) to get down. It actually took us as long to descend as it it did to climb the route! (although we took lots of long breaks as we were feeling lazy)

Added: 2007-10-23