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Dancing With The Devils After Dark - 5.8 A3+
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
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June 2006 by Nate ChossMonkey and Bigwally
Rock (Trad)
Aid
R
3
Standard Aid Rack, with 40+ KnifeBlades and some bigger pieces for the last pitch.
500
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Description:
The Steepest Face of Devils Tower is the South West Face. It features extremely thin and shallow cracks, only one ledge on the entire face and numerous overhangs.This route is one crack to the right of the CENTENNIAL route. It was first climbed by Nate Chossmonkey and Bigwally in June, 2006. It was a 22 hour effort, from start to finish...and an Excellent Route !! Pitch 1. A3+/A4- (160 ft.) Nail this crack for a long rope length, until it widens, and allows You a Great Belay, just below the left-most of the twin roofs. We used 40 KnifeBlades (35 tied-off) and a handful of RURPS and BEAKS. The anchors are Very Secure, long Lost Arrows and Baby Angles. One heck of a Fine Pitch. Pitch 2. A2 (~140 ft.)Nail around the left side of the left-most roof and continue upwards to where a Good Anchor can be set. As the crack is both wider and deeper now, the aiding is Fun and not very demanding. Pitch 3. A2,5.8 (~140 ft.)Aid a short distance until the crack widens and allows free climbing (5.8) to the Tower Top. This pitch will work Ya !!
Submitted by: bigwally on 2007-11-14
Views: 1829
Route ID: 90721
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 A4 |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
New route with Bigwally
My first marathon route. Because the SW Face is the hottest wall on the Tower we started in the evening with the plan of climbing all night and finishing before the sun would catch us. The going was slow so we still ended up getting a bit cooked. I wish I would have slept before we started! The third pitch will take as many big pieces as you want to haul up the first two. Frank lead the first two pitches, I lead the third.
Added: 2007-11-16
