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Eagle Dance (A0) - 5.10c A0

Average Rating = 4.36/5 Average Rating : 4.36 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Premier Sponsor:
George and Joanne Urioste
Rock (Trad) Aid
PG13
9
13+ quickdraws, lightweight aiders or long slings, set of nuts, set of cams .6" - 2"
1000
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.62/5
  Rock Quality 4.38/5
  Scenery 4.88/5
  Fun Factor 4.38/5

Description:

This actually a (5.10 A0) 9 pitch climb with lots of bolts, but this is no sport climb. P1 - (.8) dihedral and crack to a belay ledge with bolts, 200' P2 - (.10) move right past two bolts, (use long slings on these to avoid rope drag), follow a seam left past 8 more bolts to a belay stance atop a block, 150' P3 - (.10) straight up white face past many bolts, (lost count), to a bolted anchor, 90' P4 - (.9) follow nine bolts to a sloping ledge with a bolt belay, 110' P5 - (.10) move right to ledge and then up past several bolts to a bolted belay, 60' P6 - (.8 A0) follow a thin crack to a bulge then aid out the bulge, 8 bolts, to another bolted belay, 60' P7 (.10) follow a corner/groove to the next anchors, 100' P8 (.9) go up and left in a corner in a corner past 4 old bolts, (rest of the route has new bolts), to a ledge, belay here (130') or run it out up an easy corner to the top (50' more). You can hike off the top or rap the route from the top of P7. If you are wanting to rap and loose track where you are at on the climb, do not climb past the old bolts, there are no bolt anchors above at this time. If I do this route again, I'll rap it.

Descent Options:

Rappel the route with a 70m rope or walk off if you top out.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2007-03-14
Views: 2397
Route ID: 31463

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: laurelja on 2007-11-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars What a blast

Awesome route, did the "newer" approach, no problem. Nice solid climbing all through it. Last pitch, was very tired but good fingers meant lead without the pro, run it out to the finish
Great day, David and Geir did Levitaton next to us.
Car to car 11.5 hours

Added: 2007-11-22