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Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste, and Joe Herbst (1978)
Rock
G
13
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
1600
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Description:
Called a grade V, Epi (5.9) is usually done in a long day. You can find topo and adequate pitch description in Swain's Red Rocks Select. (supertopo has very accurate topos as well) Swain describes the route in 18 pitches but with a 60m rope, a competent team can do it it 10-12 pitches. The most famous element of the climb is the 300 feet of 5.9 chimney. All belays as per the Supertopo plus a couple others are bolted. The belay after the roof is not bolted (one bolt is there for pro/redirect)- This belay takes medium cams and/or smallish stoppers and cams, but takes a minute to find it. Enjoy this one, it's listed as a North American Classic for a reason!
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Views: 6351
Route ID: 14093
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
Amazing
Did this in 14 pitches over the course of 11 hours. I led every pitch. Both my girlfriend and I were very inexperienced with chimneys, so those slowed us down quite a bit, but we managed them with no falls. We took only a single 60 meter rope, so there was no going back once we started. Great route with varied climbing. A lucky lull between windy days and the terrible conditions for driving into Black Velvet meant we had perfect weather and yet saw only three other parties on Prince of Darkness and Sour Mash.
Added: 2008-03-13
