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Rock (Sport)
G
Five new bolts to new ring anchors. Hazardous ledge if setting top-rope, with very long tie-in and backup line. Beware of ledging hazard to third bolt. Most falls at the rings.
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Description:
To the right of the Amphitheater section, the right half of the Tall Gray Wall has a slight depression below a small ledge: two bolts there show this route, and are the crux. Going right using the dark flake area and reaching over to those bolts is the usual 5.9 line. Leading straight up the first two bolts is much harder (see "Black Rain Direct"). Taking a line to the left of the bolts is a neglected 5.8 variation.Descent Options:
It is a long way to Three Bears Gully. A minor gully at 'Devil' is difficult, especially down and with a pack.
Submitted by: bulldog on 2008-09-27
Last Modified: 2011-08-16
Views: 4105
Route ID: 15638
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
Top Rope ascent by:
Michael says 5.11
Jeff's guide kept Kelley's 5.9 with no mention of Kelley's variations to 5.12. No one has told me before that there was such a hard part, other than everyone avoiding the first two bolts. Michael, another one "getting back into climbing", tried going straight up today, and said 5.11 for sure. He agreed that the hard part starts with getting past the little overhang to the first bolt, getting worse until the ledge. The rest of it stays the same, of course, easier than 5.9.
Added: 2008-05-18
