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Rock (Trad)
3
Standard Gunks + extra small wires.
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Description:
Climb the crack systems on the right side of the High E buttress to the first Directissima belay. Pump the seam above you(crux and watch your belayer) and head right to a notch in the roof. Pull the roof (pumpy) and up to the ledge. Climb the face right of High E final pitch to the top. Classic for its grade!
Submitted by: polarwid on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Views: 1848
Route ID: 11320
Ascent Note:
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Red Point ascent by: lucander on 2008-05-29
(View Climbing Log)
Doubleissima
Returned and got a clean ascent after a pathetic onsight attempt the week before. No move on this seems harder than 5.9 but the effort required to link the moves up to and through the roof is tremendous. I stop and belay so there's less rope out for ankle cracking moves starting the second pitch, had no problem fishing in small wires on the first pitch. Finished on both Lakatakassima and Doubleissima (both 5.8), probably better pitches than High E and really hard after pumping up.
Added: 2008-05-29