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Ron Carson and Vaino Kodas
Rock (Trad)
R
1
Draws
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Description:
9/01: I think this climb should have an R rating. From the belay at the top of "The Stroll" the first 2 bolts are 20' and 10' right of the arete. Not too difficult to get to the first bolt but getting to the second bolt is pretty bold. Third bolt is on the arete. After the second bolt traverse left to the arete then go up the arete to the third bolt. Going over the overhang after the third bolt is difficult and it would be nice to have a bolt to protect this move. There are no anchors at the top. We rapped down Zodiac Mind Warp. An excellent climb but runout.
Submitted by: xsierra on 2007-07-11
Views: 2073
Route ID: 53783
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
definitely a mind game
Have followed up this once back in 2002, have thought about this climb for six years, finally made the decision. Conditions were warm, we could have started earlier than 10am, however it was breezy.
Stuck a couple of small cams over to the left of the belay, getting to the first bolt was not bad, moving to the next bolt in the middle of the face was thin with very little positive holds. Traversing from the second bolt to the arete was extremely thin, basically smearing with no hand holds with potential for fall great.
Holding on to the arete and clipping and getting comfortable was not easy, after resting going up the corner was not as easy as I was led to believe, thin moves holding the corner to a bolt pretty far away made the adrenaline pump even more.
Belay from the crack above to watch your partner (2 #2 camalots yellow and 1 #1 camalot red) As Kris said if you like your partner pull rope up and drop back to second or let them get some serious exposure like my partner did.
Stuck a couple of small cams over to the left of the belay, getting to the first bolt was not bad, moving to the next bolt in the middle of the face was thin with very little positive holds. Traversing from the second bolt to the arete was extremely thin, basically smearing with no hand holds with potential for fall great.
Holding on to the arete and clipping and getting comfortable was not easy, after resting going up the corner was not as easy as I was led to believe, thin moves holding the corner to a bolt pretty far away made the adrenaline pump even more.
Belay from the crack above to watch your partner (2 #2 camalots yellow and 1 #1 camalot red) As Kris said if you like your partner pull rope up and drop back to second or let them get some serious exposure like my partner did.
Added: 2008-07-09
