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Rock (Trad)
G
3
Double rack to Rack to 4", stoppers, and an optional #6 camalot. Take 3-8 blue camalots.
350
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Description:
Start 40 feet right of the scramble towards N. Chimney at a prominent long right facing corner. (p. 1: 150 feet, 5.11-) This is the pitch you brought all those blue cams for. Jam, stem, and fight up the sustained corner crack to a rest under a small roof. Continue up to a stance, undercling the flake above to the right, and make a committing layback up to a good ledge and bolted belay. (p. 2: 70 feet, 5.10) Watch your ankles on this one. Make hard moves off the belay up a right-leaning calcite encrusted crack to a stance in a pod. Pull through on the crack above, trend left towards a rest at some dinosaur tracks. Continue up to a good bolted stance. (p. 3: 140 feet, 5.10) Walk right to a crack system, climb up to the hanging flake. Continue up an right, following a wide crack system that eases towards the summit chimney.Descent Options:
Rap the route with double ropes.
Submitted by: joe on 2009-05-03
Views: 2855
Route ID: 5528
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Castleton N. Face
Wow! More fun than Primrose because there's a little less stress. 3 outstanding pitches. Led the first one with lots of huffing and puffing, even the stances are strenuous. Took 7 blue camalots, placed 6 of them. The crux final move is committing, well protected but difficult to downclimb. Dow led the upper two pitches, I thought this trade worked out because (1) it let me avoid the ankle cracking potential on p. 2 and (2) it let me heckle him while leading the OW on p. 3. A #5 camalot was wortheless on this pitch, if anything big take a #6.
Added: 2009-03-24
