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Little Finger Direct (LFD) - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
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Rock
4
First pitch is well bolted5.7 with 4 new SS bolts 2nd pitch is XX 5.8- 3rd pitch G with pins and ge
700
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Start 30 ft right of Littlefinger. friction5.7 past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Pitc 2 is 5.8- X rated and heads straight up past a loose death flake and then straight up unprotected 5.8 friction whih eases off a bit before you meet with little finger at the bulge. Don Mellor himsel backed off this rt after downgradeing it to 5.7 in the new guide. the last 2 pitches are great and well protected. Straight through the bulge following a discontinus crack system past pins and gear headding left ater a full pitch to the rap anchors of screaming meani which are hidden in a slight alcove. Alturitvly you can head right to the trees. the first pitch of this gets climbes quita a bit. most partys traverse left into the reg. rt after the first pitch. The pitches through the bulge are populer as well. the first pitch is a good way to pass a slow party on little finger.

Descent Options:

Head down and right from the end of "Little Finger" if facing away from the lake. From a set of bolts, two double rope rappel will get you to 3rd class terrain. 2nd rappel anchor is at a tree.

Submitted by: tradmanclimbs on 2004-07-22
Last Modified: 2007-02-09
Views: 1440
Route ID: 11136

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty
Flash Flash ascent by: polarwid on 1991-01-09 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

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Added: 1991-01-09