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Rock
standard rack & a 60m rope shortens the rappells
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Description:
The first half of the route follows a chimney system in the middle of the south face, ending one pitch above the Second Terrace. It then tends right and ascends teh southeast corner of the spire.
Submitted by: soccer_fan on 2004-07-14
Views: 1836
Route ID: 55936
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
awesome climb
One of the best climbs I've done. Approach is 4.5 miles, straightforward, & by & large mellow (don't believe any horror stories). If you look at the map (most label the second lake as Sky Pond, so I don't understand any confusion here), it should be obvious (also it is completely obvious where the formation is- once you get to Sky Pond, the view is exactly the one shown in every guidebook).
First 2 pitches (straight up the most obvious chimney system I've ever seen) are straightforward, easy 5th. Then the climbing gets fun!
I found the crux to be burly for a 5.8, but the pro' is bomber, so go for it!
Remainder of climb is highly enjoyable. Second (?) pitch above the ledge directly above the crux pitch requires some route-finding, but if you follow the chalk, fixed pieces, & the easiest line, it's not too bad- just be mindful of rope drag.
Summit is perhaps the most outrageous I've ever been on- extremely invogorating!
We only had one rope for the rappels, which made the descent a bit more tedious than I was hoping for, but you CAN get down with 1 60 (though 2 would definitely make it easier- wish that rap' stations accomodated those with 1 rope better; the actual climb is fine to do with just one 60)- it just takes some more hunting around/some easy downclimbing.
Excellent climb, amazing formation & rock, great pro. A classic, just like Steck & Roper called it.
First 2 pitches (straight up the most obvious chimney system I've ever seen) are straightforward, easy 5th. Then the climbing gets fun!
I found the crux to be burly for a 5.8, but the pro' is bomber, so go for it!
Remainder of climb is highly enjoyable. Second (?) pitch above the ledge directly above the crux pitch requires some route-finding, but if you follow the chalk, fixed pieces, & the easiest line, it's not too bad- just be mindful of rope drag.
Summit is perhaps the most outrageous I've ever been on- extremely invogorating!
We only had one rope for the rappels, which made the descent a bit more tedious than I was hoping for, but you CAN get down with 1 60 (though 2 would definitely make it easier- wish that rap' stations accomodated those with 1 rope better; the actual climb is fine to do with just one 60)- it just takes some more hunting around/some easy downclimbing.
Excellent climb, amazing formation & rock, great pro. A classic, just like Steck & Roper called it.
Added: 2009-09-03
