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J.J., Jane Maurer, 2004
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
G
1
UPDATE: Apparently this decent trad lead has now been fully bolted. Sad. Not like there weren't already enough fully bolted moderates in the area.Clip bolts OR....1 bolt 2/3rds of the way up and mostly smaller cams. You might want something bigger like a
50
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Description:
Climb up the slabby dihedral left of "Hey There Fancy Pants." Follow up to a single bolt and come to a ledge below a roof. The anchor bolts are on the face of the roof with a ring dangling out in space to serve as your target. You might want to bring a whisk broom as it was quite sandy, especially at the ledge before the anchors. Maybe this will improve in time. Like many routes in this area, circa 11/08 there was a tag glued to the wall and engraved with the route name at the start. (Note: Details such as first ascent and length from Ray Ellington Red River Gorge climbing guide!)Descent Options:
Bolted anchors and a rap ring on a cable loop. Rap off the ring in the cable loop (check this or add a sacrificial carabiner for redundancy) or use the anchor bolts in some manner. Not sure if they are rap bolts however!
Submitted by: mjwestla on 2009-03-09
Last Modified: 2012-07-31
Views: 1959
Route ID: 97240
Ascent Note:
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: MS1 on 2009-10-17
(View Climbing Log)
Nice climb
Easy until the last ten feet. At that point, you can go left or right. Go left up the thin flake and it stays easy---probably nothing more than 5.7 the whole way. Go right up the handcrack and it is more interesting---maybe 5.9, with longer moves off of handjams in the overhang.
Added: 2009-10-17