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Epinephrine - 5.9 popular

Average Rating = 4.65/5 Average Rating : 4.65 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 20
Premier Sponsor:
Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste, and Joe Herbst (1978)
Rock
G
13
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
1600
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.55/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 4.61/5
  Fun Factor 4.76/5

Description:

Called a grade V, Epi (5.9) is usually done in a long day. You can find topo and adequate pitch description in Swain's Red Rocks Select. (supertopo has very accurate topos as well) Swain describes the route in 18 pitches but with a 60m rope, a competent team can do it it 10-12 pitches. The most famous element of the climb is the 300 feet of 5.9 chimney. All belays as per the Supertopo plus a couple others are bolted. The belay after the roof is not bolted (one bolt is there for pro/redirect)- This belay takes medium cams and/or smallish stoppers and cams, but takes a minute to find it. Enjoy this one, it's listed as a North American Classic for a reason!

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Views: 6351
Route ID: 14093

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: csproul on 2010-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Guess I'm not a chimney master!

Climbed on 3/23/10. I'm not going to lie...the chimney pitches were pretty rough for me. I guess I have very little experience with that type of climbing. They were ok when wide enough, but when they narrowed up or I felt the need to move in for gear, it became physical. I was very glad to have an old style #4 Camalot and probably would have liked two. I'm guessing that if you are confident, you can stay out in the wider parts and run it out a little more, but keep the climbing easier.The chimneys were hard enough that we did not link any of the pitches and used all four belay stations. This was also useful since we hauled a small bullet pack as well. The upper face climbing pitches were fantastic and went much faster. Because of our slowness through the chimneys, we never really hit the sun on the upper pitches, so it was a fairly cold day. In all it was a 45 minute approach, and I think we did 13 pitches plus the last 600-800 ft of simuclimbing, which took almost 12 hours. This could easily be shortened if you can link the chimney pitches and maybe a few others. Despite the reputation, the walk off was pretty straight forward, thanks to ample cairns. The trick is to climb up to the summit of Whiskey peak after reaching the top of Black velvet peak, by way of the saddle between the two. After that, there were cairns marking the way down the ridge until you reach the large double cairns. Here, you drop down a gully system and eventually hit the decent from the top of Frogland.

Added: 2010-03-30