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Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste, and Joe Herbst (1978)
Rock
G
13
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
1600
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Description:
Called a grade V, Epi (5.9) is usually done in a long day. You can find topo and adequate pitch description in Swain's Red Rocks Select. (supertopo has very accurate topos as well) Swain describes the route in 18 pitches but with a 60m rope, a competent team can do it it 10-12 pitches. The most famous element of the climb is the 300 feet of 5.9 chimney. All belays as per the Supertopo plus a couple others are bolted. The belay after the roof is not bolted (one bolt is there for pro/redirect)- This belay takes medium cams and/or smallish stoppers and cams, but takes a minute to find it. Enjoy this one, it's listed as a North American Classic for a reason!
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Views: 6351
Route ID: 14093
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
Awesome and exhausting
My partner Ryan and I did it in 10 pitches - started at 11am; skipped the first pitch and scrambled instead via a few feet to the right of the start - then linked the next 2 pitches simul-climbing. I led the first chimney and Ryan led the last two and then we swapped leads again after the Black Tower. The rest of the route is face climbing and scrambling that Ryan led. The descent is clearly marked with cairns but we were halfway down when it got dark on us. We managed to get to the vehicle after being embraced by brush and cactus kisses. The descent in the dark was the most intense part - but best route I've climbed in RR thus far; have to give a lot of that credit due to a knowledgeable and strong partner.
Added: 2010-05-08
