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Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste, and Joe Herbst (1978)
Rock
G
13
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
1600
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Description:
Called a grade V, Epi (5.9) is usually done in a long day. You can find topo and adequate pitch description in Swain's Red Rocks Select. (supertopo has very accurate topos as well) Swain describes the route in 18 pitches but with a 60m rope, a competent team can do it it 10-12 pitches. The most famous element of the climb is the 300 feet of 5.9 chimney. All belays as per the Supertopo plus a couple others are bolted. The belay after the roof is not bolted (one bolt is there for pro/redirect)- This belay takes medium cams and/or smallish stoppers and cams, but takes a minute to find it. Enjoy this one, it's listed as a North American Classic for a reason!
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Views: 6351
Route ID: 14093
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Awesome!
Still in disbelief that every single pitch on this climb was so good. The chimneys are not scary at all and only involve maybe 100-150 feet of real chimneying, the rest is classic crack climbing. You want a scary chimney go do Tunnel Vision. Took about 10.5 hours car to car and we moved at reasonable pace in great weather with no one else on the route. Descent was straightforward using Supertopo beta but I could see it being awful in the dark.
Added: 2010-06-15
