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Rock (Sport)
G
Five new bolts to new ring anchors. Hazardous ledge if setting top-rope, with very long tie-in and backup line. Beware of ledging hazard to third bolt. Most falls at the rings.
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Description:
To the right of the Amphitheater section, the right half of the Tall Gray Wall has a slight depression below a small ledge: two bolts there show this route, and are the crux. Going right using the dark flake area and reaching over to those bolts is the usual 5.9 line. Leading straight up the first two bolts is much harder (see "Black Rain Direct"). Taking a line to the left of the bolts is a neglected 5.8 variation.Descent Options:
It is a long way to Three Bears Gully. A minor gully at 'Devil' is difficult, especially down and with a pack.
Submitted by: bulldog on 2008-09-27
Last Modified: 2011-08-16
Views: 4105
Route ID: 15638
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
Once again
Having seen a beginner put on this route and having a hard time and a fall ("ledging out" or falling on the ledge is a real hazard), I can confirm that there is some difficulty here--just not 5.9 except on the direct line at the bottom. I was on the right to start, and ashamed of how far to the right. Above the ledge is a lovely cruise.
But repeating: rigging this for top-rope is the worst at Pilot imo. Imo, this should be anchored from gear for TR, especially for rappelling down.
LL
But repeating: rigging this for top-rope is the worst at Pilot imo. Imo, this should be anchored from gear for TR, especially for rappelling down.
LL
Added: 2010-10-24
