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Garry Anderson, Jay Smith, Rick Sumner (1977)
Rock (Trad)
G
3
Draws, Nuts 1set, Cams, few .5"-1.5"
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Description:
Starts just to the left of Hookers Haven and takes the most direct line up the south face. Pitch 1: Climbs a well bolted steep face that traverses slightly to the left. Good pockets and crimps on high quality rock. Skip the first set of (hanging belay) anchors and continue up to the next set about 10ft higher for a good stance. Pitch 2: Climbs up good holds to a small flake. The angle backs off after the flake and larger holds and knobs appear. Some gear can be found as well as knob tie offs between bolts. Stop at the belay anchors at a good ledge. Pitch 3: Winds its way up somewhat slabby face with smaller holds and few cracks. Some pro can be found between bolts.Descent Options:
Rap the route with a 60m rope. Watch the ends of your rope because a 60m will use intermediate anchors as it will fall short of the belay anchors.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2008-01-26
Views: 1472
Route ID: 91921
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
An amazing, albeit slightly scary classic!
Felt stiff, but I hear that's common for the area. We did it in 3 pitches, I led all of them, and it was a fantastic sustained line. There is some pretty loose flakes on the last pitch, forcing you to remain right on some of the same thin edges that the rest of the climb has, making that last "5.7" pitch feel pretty hard, and more runout. Reachy for me at 5'8", but just meant that I had to be a little more creative. Highly recommended, but the leader should feel solid at the grade.
Added: 2011-02-13
