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Rock
Bolts
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Description:
This route can be started on the left and then traverse right (2 bolts) to join the center route. Or you can climb directly up the center to the chute (5.3 no protection) to join the route. This is a true Pinnacles classic and is probably the most popular climb in the park. There are two bolts on each side of the top for double-rope rappels. You can also rappel off the short backside and downclimb the chimney.
Submitted by: polarwid on 2003-02-06
Views: 2054
Route ID: 12109
Ascent Note:
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.5 |
Safety Rating | R |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
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Second ascent by: Superpedro on 2011-05-01
(View Climbing Log)
Run out stuff with our variation
Nico lead, I followed. (Route n° 225-226 in the topo)
Starting by climbing from the right side of the pillar, leaving the 2 bolts of the "variation" on our right side. Put a nut in the rock on top of the pillar. Then climb up to the "possible belay" made of 2 bolts. (very run out, a fall would bring you back to ground - although this is not very hard, like 5.4).
-- Nico actually did a variation to clip the bolt just at the right of the left route intermediary belay --
After that you have 2 bolts quite close to each other to protect the hardest move (5.5) and then it is easier (5.3 - 5.4) to the summit, but run out again.
The view is nice but I think would be better from the top of the left route.
Starting by climbing from the right side of the pillar, leaving the 2 bolts of the "variation" on our right side. Put a nut in the rock on top of the pillar. Then climb up to the "possible belay" made of 2 bolts. (very run out, a fall would bring you back to ground - although this is not very hard, like 5.4).
-- Nico actually did a variation to clip the bolt just at the right of the left route intermediary belay --
After that you have 2 bolts quite close to each other to protect the hardest move (5.5) and then it is easier (5.3 - 5.4) to the summit, but run out again.
The view is nice but I think would be better from the top of the left route.
Added: 2011-05-01