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Fifth Sister - Going the Wong Way - 5.7
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 242
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Rock (Trad)
G
1
Bolts for the 5.7
Trad for the 5.3
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Description:
Loose 5.3 climbing up to a small tree. Then right face climbing with 3 bolts. The 2nd is hard to see. Then easy scramble to the top. You can set up a belay from a big dead tree, then walk back to the start of the route
Submitted by: Superpedro on 2011-05-01
Views: 772
Route ID: 108553
Ascent Note:
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.6 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: Superpedro on 2011-05-01
(View Climbing Log)
Good climbing in the sisters
Approach: Just after the reservoir there is a climb trail: do NOT take it, it leads to another area. 20m after, there is another climbing trail indicated that even says: Sister climbing this way. :D Continue the trail up to the end of it, passing all the sisters, leaving them on your left. Just before that, check out the large crack: this is it!
Climb: 5.3 very easy up to the tree, with no pro up to 2m before the tree, then nuts + then sling the tree possible.
3 bolts are on the face climb, which makes it well protected. However, I couldn't see the 2nd bolt (which would make that part of the climb R or X) so I was hesitant to go. I did go and only saw the 2nd bolt when I had my hand on it (almost literally). The 3rd bolt was obvious from the 1st one.
Then it is easy, walk around the bulky rock/notch to climb it from behind to belay from the large dead tree very comfortably (Didn't see any of the belay bolts mentioned in the topo).
Descent: Walk back to the large ground area, then take right, as close as possible to the climbing route, you can enter a sort of horizontal chimney and downclimb/scramble through it easily.
Climb: 5.3 very easy up to the tree, with no pro up to 2m before the tree, then nuts + then sling the tree possible.
3 bolts are on the face climb, which makes it well protected. However, I couldn't see the 2nd bolt (which would make that part of the climb R or X) so I was hesitant to go. I did go and only saw the 2nd bolt when I had my hand on it (almost literally). The 3rd bolt was obvious from the 1st one.
Then it is easy, walk around the bulky rock/notch to climb it from behind to belay from the large dead tree very comfortably (Didn't see any of the belay bolts mentioned in the topo).
Descent: Walk back to the large ground area, then take right, as close as possible to the climbing route, you can enter a sort of horizontal chimney and downclimb/scramble through it easily.
Added: 2011-05-01