Routes : Reviews
Comments: Show | Hide
Premier Sponsor:
|
JJ Schlick
Rock (Trad)
G
1
Small cams and wires to #1 camelot
80
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
Starts left of Tainted Love. Moves into a clean corner which gets more difficult as you go. Get psyched for the high crux with your last pro well below your feet.Descent Options:
lower
Submitted by: crackmd on 2009-08-01
Views: 751
Route ID: 101124
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
So much fun!
This corner gives you exactly what you need when you desperately need it. The crux for me came at the top when i stemmed hard and dropped my shoulder and arm chimney body scum style into the corner thinking i could rest like that. Started slowly sliding down then had to do the most desperate foot scums to correct my mistake. Amazing finger pockets when you need them and improbable crimps up high. I love routes that make you bust it over nuts cuz you have no other choice but to go. Maybe i just don't like thinking too hard. Its airy so go for it.
Added: 2011-06-02
