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Sweet Jane - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.35/5 Average Rating : 3.35 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 7
Premier Sponsor:
J.J., Jane Maurer, 2004
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
G
1
UPDATE: Apparently this decent trad lead has now been fully bolted. Sad. Not like there weren't already enough fully bolted moderates in the area.Clip bolts OR....1 bolt 2/3rds of the way up and mostly smaller cams. You might want something bigger like a
50
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.86/5
  Rock Quality 3.36/5
  Scenery 3.07/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

Climb up the slabby dihedral left of "Hey There Fancy Pants." Follow up to a single bolt and come to a ledge below a roof. The anchor bolts are on the face of the roof with a ring dangling out in space to serve as your target. You might want to bring a whisk broom as it was quite sandy, especially at the ledge before the anchors. Maybe this will improve in time. Like many routes in this area, circa 11/08 there was a tag glued to the wall and engraved with the route name at the start. (Note: Details such as first ascent and length from Ray Ellington Red River Gorge climbing guide!)

Descent Options:

Bolted anchors and a rap ring on a cable loop. Rap off the ring in the cable loop (check this or add a sacrificial carabiner for redundancy) or use the anchor bolts in some manner. Not sure if they are rap bolts however!

Submitted by: mjwestla on 2009-03-09
Last Modified: 2012-07-31
Views: 1959
Route ID: 97240

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: climb4free on 2011-06-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars First @ Red

First Climb at the Red

Added: 2011-06-27