Skip to Content

Routes : Reviews
Show: Sort by: Display:

Comments:  Show | Hide


ORGONE DONOR - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Premier Sponsor:
Fall 1995
Rock (Trad)
G
1
Mixed - 4 bolts, a full rack is needed for below and above the bolt protected crux section.
80
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

5.11d/12a ** Climbs the steep intermittent crack 5' left of the start of IN DEPTH. Climb it through the bulging roof to the cold shut anchors. The thin technical crux is at the first 2 bolts.

Descent Options:

lower from cold shut anchors or continue up second pitch to the top (2 options - right side - THE SACRIFICIAL HAM 5.12b * (145' M - 12 b), or left side EUCHARISTIC BARBECUE 5.11c ** (145' M - 11 b)

Submitted by: applewood on 2012-04-29
Views: 412
Route ID: 111295

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: applewood on 1995-09-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Technical....

5.11d/12a took some time to work this one. I've never seen it onsighted yet. Very thin crux after the strenuous finger crack start. The upper pitches (left and right variations, Eucharistic BBQ being the regular continuation of Orgone Donor)) make for a great sustained continuation.

Added: 2012-04-25