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Fiddler on the Roof - 5.10d popular

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 12
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Rock (Trad)
G
7
Doubles to 1.25", Singles to 2", 1.5 sets stoppers, large RPs.
800
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.80/5
  Rock Quality 4.60/5
  Scenery 4.80/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

One of the best routes in Black Velvet, and in the park. Sustained, engaging climbing for hundreds of feet up the perfect shield that is the right side of the velvet curtain. Start 50 yards right of DoWT/PoD at some scoops below the obvious chimney 150' up. The first bolt is about 20' up. Pitch 1: Climb up, following the bolts up, then right to the base of the chimney pitch. 120', 5.9 Pitch 2: Climb up the obvious crack to a bolt, then step left into the chimney and follow it to the belay. Watch for stuck ropes! 110', 5.9 Pitch 3: Climb up and clip a bolt, then traverse into the recessed slab with a bolt in the middle, then climb up and right out of the slab, following the crack up for 20' before traversing right again, clipping a bolt and following features straight right to belay. 120', 5.10a Pitch 4: The money pitch. Climb straight up, following bolts to a traverse left, then up again to a hanging belay. 150', 5.10d Pitch 5: Climb straight up, following bolts to a belay. 120', 5.10b Pitch 6: Climb up and left, following bolts to a shelf- traverse left, clipping a bolt, before climbing straight up to belay. 120', 5.10b Pitch 7: Climb straight up to the bolt high above, then continue up to Turkey ledge and the final station. 120', 5.9+

Descent Options:

Rappel the route with two ropes.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2010-05-04
Views: 3470
Route ID: 36829

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: zcooky1 on 2014-02-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars zcooky1

Awesome route, fast climbing.....if your quick you can even squeeze in 2 routes in a day since there so tightly packed together.

Added: 2014-02-26