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Joanne Urioste, Karl Wilcox
Rock (Trad)
R
6
Standard rack to 4", micro cams are good to have.
800
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Description:
Start about 30' right of the alcove where Healy's Haunted House begins at the obvious left facing dihedral. Pitch 1: Head up the dihedral to a sling belay. 5.7, 190' Pitch 2: Head up the cool looking flake until it ends, step right to a bolt, then head up to a ledge and belay. 5.8, 50' Pitch 3: Cross the ledge to the right and ascend the groove, stepping right when a bolt appears. Traverse right, then head up, stopping when a belay stance appears. 5.7, 120' Pitch 4: Head up the crack system above until it ends and cross the ledge to a two bolt belay. 5.7+, 150' Pitch 5: Head up the thin crack above and traverse directly right when possible to belay below an obvious left facing dihedral. 5.8, 150' Pitch 6: Climb the dihedral (and the face just left) to the summit. 5.7, 195'. Variation: Instead of traversing right halfway up Pitch 5, continue straight up to belay on a big ledge below an obvious crack in the varnished headwall. For the final pitch, work your way up to the base of the crack and climb it. 5.8/5.9, 100'Descent Options:
Descend by walking back to the gully and turning left, evenutally joining the Tunnelvision descent.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2007-03-21
Views: 2600
Route ID: 84350
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Magnificant route ...
basically sustained 5.7 with a couple short sections of 5.8. The 2nd bolt on the 3rd pitch is hard to see. Climb straight up from the 1st bolt about 15 ft, then move right on good edges - you'll see it. This allows you to link pitches 2 & 3. We took a #5 Camelot - takes some of the risk out of the wide pitches.
Added: 2014-11-23
