Pioneer Route - 5.7 popular

it was my 21st B-day. My first real outdoor climb and I decide to dive right in and follow Austen up this route. Everything was going well until I got in the mouth and I started getting cold and nervous as hell. We each had pretty heavy packs on, since we were sleeping in the eye that night. When I stepped out of the mouth at panick point, I was instantly pumped, and I also wasn't following the route up the right way, so I fell. And I fell a long ways! cuz Austen couldn't see me and there was a lot of rope out. I ended up scrambling up into the mouth, trying again, and falling again and again. I was about to take my heavy pack off, tie one end of my extra rope to it and one end to me, and try to head up without it, when Francois Legrand comes climbing over to me. (he was with the Rock & Ice mag camera crew, and had just climbed Close Shave, 5.12 C R) He helped coach me through it, showing me where to climb, and how to use the draws to aid my ascent. (I think he was ropeless, when he appeared out of nowhere) I thanked him and made my way up to Austen and he's like, "What took you so long?" I'm not sure he even knew I had fallen like 5 times. (no feel in the rope) We get to the top then go back into the eye, eat some dry romen, and go to sleep (or at least tried, there were too many mice scurrying around - I didn't know what was making the noise at the time, but it was freaking me out man!) Next day is beautiful and the rappel was a great way to start the day.

Four months later Austen calls me up all excited and tells me I made it into the August/Sept issue of Rock & Ice magazine! page 68. Yep, there I am with that stupid heavy pack on belaying him with Francois climbing down below me. : )