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North Face-West Crack - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
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Rock
Full rack, dubles up to #3 BD and a #4 and #5. Nuts and hexes also handy
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.25/5

Description:

Great adventure route with an awesome leap across a 140 foot chasm. Find corner system on north side at saddle. P1:(5.8+) Climb up corner (could be exciting) to a slot exiting out left. Belay off bolts. P2: Move belay up to nice tight-hands crack a couple ledges up. Climb the tight hands (5.9) up and right to get into oblique chimney. If you have long rope, you can just keep cruising until you get to the top (about 185 feet). Else split into two pitches.Watch out for the loose blocks at the the top of lower summit. P3: Famous jump across move, traverse left and climb a small roof crack (5.8) and then on up to the anchor right below the summit. A short 12 foot pitch to the top. It is best to stay roped up for this and then the last man down lead the crack. This may be the best 5.9 tower in Sedona.

Descent Options:

Newer rappel anchors located on the north side of the lower tower eliminate the need to rappel down into the bowels of the chimney.

Submitted by: joshklingbeil on 2007-01-04
Views: 2120
Route ID: 44704

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sandstoneslave on 2000-04-22 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

A great route, be aware of land issues and take the longer approach.

Agreed with 10b crux.

Witnessed by: My lovely Wife
Added: 2000-04-22