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Crampons, tools. Maybe a short rope and anchor webbing for last 20ft.
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Description:
Park at the Redfish Lake trailhead parkinglot. Hike the Redfish Creek trail then branch off on the Bench Lakes trail and into the Sawtooth wilderness. Follow indistinct trails past all of the bench lakes and up into the cirque below the north face. The climb begins in the obvious couloir. Climb snow, ice, or rotten rock (depending on time of year/conditions) up to the saddle between the east and west summits. Most parties climb the slightly lower east summit as opossed to thrashing around on rotten granite on the west summit. From the saddle head up east (left) first staying on the south side then crossing over to the north side. The last 20 ft to the summit requires some ultra exposed 5th class climbing. To descend, retrace your steps back to the saddle then head down scree filled gullies on the mountain's south side. Trend right in the gullies. Pick up the Redfish Creek trail and follow back to bench lakes and the car. (or for lazy weaklings take the shuttle boat to the Inlet Transfer camp...) Fourth class, with sections of rotten/loose rock in late summer.
Submitted by: superbum on 2005-08-20
Views: 545
Route ID: 69031
Ascent Note:
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Ascent Note
Whew! Hair raising adventure! I did this thing solo, and with out crampons or tools. The bottom half of the couloir was filled with snow/ice still so I had to scramble climb traverse along the side of this steep ice toung. Very scary but fun. Then there were sections of great solid rock for a while, then near the top it turned to sandy loose garbage...scary again, but worth it once I got to the summit ridge. I didn't quite make the summit as the last 20ft was to great a risk to take on my own with no rope...maybe next time!
Added: 2005-08-18
