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#1-#2 cam, 2 bolts
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Description:
From the top of a large boulder just right of Hobbits start climb up to a horizontal crack then make your way up the face on unprotected climbing to the first bolt. Continue up the face to another bolt ending a two bolt rap station. One 60m rope will get you down but you MUST RAP THE ROUTE or rope will not reach! Excellent line even if it is runout.**** F.A. Duane Raleigh, Bill Thomas (1980)
Submitted by: superdiamonddave on 2004-06-02
Views: 1107
Route ID: 51090
Ascent Note:
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Onsight ascent by: berkly on 2005-12-12
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
Im hesitant about claiming an onsight of this line because I rapped the route and stared at the features trying to talk myself into jumping on the sharp end. Eventually I talked myself into it and what an experience. With a white alien protecting the first crux over the bulge, it soon became obsolete as I ran it out for the next 25 ft to the first bolt. Nothing too hard, but definately a mind fuck. Clipped the bolt and felt a rush of relief as I made the next few moves up to the second and last bolt. It protected a powerful/balancy side pull up to the upper slab. Then another 20ft runnout over 5.9 up to the anchors. PHew, what a climb. Totally different experience on lead.
Added: 2005-12-12