cracksniffer's Logbook (15 ascents)

Dude, Phil, my bad on not bringing enough water for this one, and for forgetting some on Awahnee. Sure was nice to climb something so steep without having much experience though, even if you were dry-puking from dehydration most of the way. Most memorable thing about this climb was bushwacking down to the top of Bridalveil in the dark for water, after topping out. Since we dropped our haulbag (and unknowingly scared the bejeezus out of Kurt, who we didn't know was climbing below us) we had to spend the night cuddling up to stay warm and hoping we wouldn't get gut cramps from hell for drinking that water.

This route, like many on the London Wall, is basically pumpy without any super hard moves (hence the name). The crux is a deadpoint (lunge or dyno for some) on positive holds right at the top. Very fun! A pretty good rest exists right before the final sequence. I don't think I would use the words "insane" or "thin" for this route... It gets its rating for its "pump factor" more than for any stopper moves, which are much easier than .12A individually. Probably a good first .12A to project in the area.

This is a great route with a bouldery start, followed by some relatively easy moves by comparison, and ending with a steep technical sequence. Decent rest before entering crux sequence, but I don't think it was possible to completely recover there... not sure. I hung all over it my first time on it, worked the moves, got good beta for the crux (a local activist was there with a laser pointer!), and somehow sent it on my first redpoint attempt one or two days later.

Excellent route...what sticks in my mind is a sequence which consisted of a long, somewhat powerful left span with a small edge for the left foot. The difficulty of this move varied depending on what shoes I was wearing and how well they stayed on that edge. Once, after clipping this route up for the 3rd or 4th time and reaching the anchors, I noticed I hadn't completely finished my tie-in knot. Probably would have held anyway but... GEEZ! I've never made that mistake again.

This was such a cool route. Ed the Head took a whipper on the last pitch I think it was. Awesome holds, steep climbing.