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DavidEast's Logbook (5 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Carroll County: Cathedral Ledge: Thin Air Face

Toe Crack *** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: DavidEast on 1999-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars nice

you can lead a pitch below to the base of the toe crack separate. I prefer to do the whole thing as one long pitch with a 60m rope; just watch your rope drag if you do. The toe crack itself is solid. There are a couple good rests for placing pro; I prefer lowe tricams on this route. Have the second drag another rope, you'll need to tie the ropes together to rap all the way down. Be careful pulling the ropes, saw a guy get his rope hung up when the knot wedged in the top of toe crack. That accounted for I think my third lead of the route retrieving his rope for him. hahahaha... oh well :) bastard could've at least bought me a beer in N. Conway.

Added: 2011-08-26

Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Carroll County: Whitehorse Ledge: Echo Roof Area

Ethereal Crack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: DavidEast on 2002-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars thin

a ways up for your first pro. Crack starts nice.. gets super thin, more face climbing/smearing with your feet than really crack climbing. very balance-based climbing through the middle of the crack, crack mainly helps you stabilize, feet do all the climbing on this one. Pro is thin, used only nuts, but the stopper placements are solid. At the top you can go right or left to get around the big flake to the anchor tree. Left was dirty and dusty for me, have also climbed right... I'd recommend right. overall a great route

Added: 2011-08-26

Routes: North America: United States: New Hampshire: Carroll County: Whitehorse Ledge: Echo Roof Area

Seventh Seal Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: DavidEast on 2002-08-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars stout start

tad run out to your first pro... moving from the face to the crack without pro is the mental crux. I only used nuts to protect the crack; tiny ones, but you can lace it up quite quickly with stoppers. Saw someone refer to it as a hand crack.. NO, it's a fingertip crack... often times you slide your fingers along till they find a slight pocket in the crack, just don't let your fingers compete with your gear for which is going in the crack. Your feet just smear the face... Past the finger crack it feels like a walk-up to the tree. One of my favorite routes of all time.

Added: 2011-08-26

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Central: Stone Mountain State Park: South Face - Routes Starting From "Tree Ledge"

Great Arch popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: DavidEast on 2011-08-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars always fun

Have climbed this several times a decade or so. It's just a fantastic, fun, well-exposed, safe and solid mega-classic route. A MUST-CLIMB if you're going to spending time at Stone Mtn. Have climbed it year 'round! (I prefer the block route to get to the great ledge)

Added: 2011-08-26

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Central: Pilot Mountain: Amphitheater

Arms Control Half Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: DavidEast on 2011-08-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars on sight

Great route. three bolts to double bolts. First bolt is clippable from a safe stance. very sequential start, moving right of first bolt and up. large sloper above the bolt can be matched with both hands to walk your feet up. Getting over that "hump" to move on to the second bolt is a touch awkward. But once above the sloper the climbing get much easier to the second bolt. Difficulty increases a bit up to the third bolt again, but not as intense as passing the first bolt. Reaching the double bolts is awkward as they're on the face side of a small roof. There's a decent hold off to the left end of the roof, then lean right and walk your feet up keeping your hips tucked into the roof and reaching the bolts becomes much easier. There aren't chains or rap rings on the hangers but sometimes a biner or two are left behind. I wasn't sure of the grade at the bottom. I thought it was either a hard 5.9... maaaybe a 5.10. Either way, it's a blast.

Added: 2011-08-26