EvilMonkey's Logbook (6 ascents)

Fun climb, but there's a lot of other good stuff up that way that's longer and might make for a better day. The sun never seemed to hit it though, so the ice was in good, wet, plastic shape! Transient Alterations, across the creek, fell down in the sun while we were on the route. We goofed up on approach and walked straight up the creek late in the season. We ended up having to eventually climb out of the canyon up to the path that runs along the east rim. That made for an epicly long day in soaking wet boots, but at least the weather was warm.

Great pitch to cap off an ascent of Stringer. We weren't sure if we'd finished Stringer or not, so we hiked up the drainage for a hot minute. At the time, we weren't sure if it was the last pitch of Stringer, or what, so we went ahead and climbed it. Best pitch of the day.

Fun day of climbing. Couple of really good pitches with lots and lots of rolling ice. We roped up for the first and second pitches and soloed the rest. there are so many rolling steps that it was hard to clearly define where each pitch begins and ends. Experienced everything from fat ice to soaking wet, chandeliered ice. Bolt anchors were nice, as the ice at the tops of the pitches was too thin for V-threads. Beautiful drainage with lots of interesting climbing. We did not experience any rockfall.

Climbed the first 4 pitches on styrofoam ice. of those, the 3rd pitch was the hardest, going at WI4. There was a fracture running across the pillar near the top, and my partner sent some bigass chunks of ice falling. The 4th offered about 100' of sustained WI3 climbing. Hiked up and took a look at My Only Valentine(5th pitch) and the Carotid Artery, but decided to save it for another day. During the traverse for the walkoff, a good sized boulder came smoking down from up high and came to rest at the base of the 4th pitch, right where we would've been if we'd chosen the much faster option of rapping the route. There were already V-threads in place on each pitch. The South Fork never fails to make for a memorable day of climbing.

Fun little climb. Seemed harder than WI2, but that's how it goes. I hit it pretty early in the morning when the sun was just getting on the 2nd tier. It was way more plastic than the part in the shade, so you'd probably want to get on it early on clear days.

fun climb. This thing was in fat conditions and was easy to protect. We were going to climb Cabin Fever, but we would've been waiting behind 2 parties. We ran into Joe Josephson, the guidebook author, and he suggested that we hike up the creek and check this one out. it's kind of a long hike if you don't plan on setting-up a TR and trying a few harder lines.