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alexoverhere's Logbook (254 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (7)



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Routes: North America: United States: Maine: Far North: Millinocket North: Mt. Katahdin: Mt. Katahdin

The Flatiron Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: alexoverhere on 2013-09-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun alpine climb

Our version of this route.

Normal 2 hour approach from Chimney Pong took 3 because of wet rock.

Approach: As to the Armadillo, but head right instead of left and get on the big horizontal ledge that spans the length of the entire Flatiron feature.

(P1) Walk along the ledge until you find a slab that forms an obvious cave; climb up its right side (or start slightly further right) and find an obvious left-arcing hand/finger crack (5.8+, crux). If you do the climb when the face is damp, you will get no friction on the face and the crack will be more difficult, but it protects well and is short. Gain a ledge with loose rock and belay to the right ~10 feet in a right-facing corner. (P2) Climb up then left a few feet to find the long, right-facing dihedral with a hand crack that defines the pitch. Follow the dihedral until the crack begins to get more difficult and you can see a large crack with a narrow opening up and to your right (slung with some slings as of 9/6/2013). Belay on an obvious platform below the crack. (P3) Climb up the large crack looking for the first opportunity to traverse left. There will be an airy "step across" move to the left; do not stay in any large "12 inch" cracks for too long or they might end in an unprotectable corner (according to another route description). After you step across, find another crack system and continue upward, until you find a good belay spot (optional) or (P4) continue straight up and gain the ridge shortly. (P5-?) Simul climb or unrope for several hundred feet of easy climbing to the summit ridge. Be careful of loose / unstable rock.

Added: 2013-09-08

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Beauty Mountain: Supercrack Buttress

Mushrooms Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: alexoverhere on 2013-05-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars try #2

managed to not pump out this time ;) fun finger locks and painful toe-dancing. takes lots of nuts.

Added: 2013-05-27

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Beauty Mountain: Supercrack Buttress

Supercrack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: alexoverhere on 2013-05-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars okay

finally was able to get on this. yep, crack.

Added: 2013-05-27

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Beauty Mountain: Supercrack Buttress

Transcendence Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: alexoverhere on 2013-05-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars awesome

loved this route.. i need to get back on it when i have some endurance. i also took 5 small cams and found occasion to place 2.

Added: 2013-05-27

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Beauty Mountain: Supercrack Buttress

Screamer Crack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: alexoverhere on 2013-05-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars hard

was hard for a 5.8! we had a couple #5s and #6s, which made it leadable. i avoided liebacking in favor of hand-fist stacks and leg jams.

Added: 2013-05-27

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Bubba City: Bubba Buttress

Bubbaweiser Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: alexoverhere on 2013-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars ugh

was a lot of fun but had a hell of a time finding the holds on the crux sections

Added: 2013-05-27

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Bubba City: Bubba Buttress

St. Pauli Girl Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: alexoverhere on 2013-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars hm

saw people doing weird stuff on the crux. quite easy for the grade with some trad technique

Added: 2013-05-27

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Bubba City: Bubba Buttress

Celebration Ale Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
Flash Flash ascent by: alexoverhere on 2013-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars -

-

Added: 2013-05-27

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Bubba City: Bubba Buttress

Cerveza Verde Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: alexoverhere on 2013-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars cool

fine

Added: 2013-05-27

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Bubba City: Ames Wall

Tongulation Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: alexoverhere on 2013-05-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars very fun

took on the face.. don't remember why. gotta go back to do this.

Added: 2013-05-27

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