cobbledik's Logbook (239 ascents)

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bad swing getting to anchors if you fall. a bit wet after a storm.

good climb for early trad leaders (comfortable in the grade of course) because of the supplementary bolts and piton as well as midway anchors to collect yourself at

solid crack. Best one on Discovery Wall IMO

I'd say 5.9 is appropriate grade for the lieback moves at the top. Solid finger slot are plentiful.

Great lead by Lauren

Pitch 1 is C1 happiness, straight up and straight forward placements. A great pitch to get some hand-placed angles sawed off practice in.
Pitch 2 continues the rack and has def seen less traffic, slightly trickier placements then traverses to the arching seam via two bolts then.... a rivet with a stripped head, no threads and a downward bend and just the slightest mushrooming at the end where the top had come off. My smallest wire rivet hanger barely held on. Leads to bomber looking fixed heads to a rap anchor on an obvious edge.
The rest of the pitch looks chill following a few more fixed heads over a bulge to what the guide book says is 5.5 climbing to a pair of bolts 50' or so away. A 60M rope reaches to the ground from the anchors on the small ledge so we went down. The third part of the pitch after these anchors will probably be more fun for the second than the leader due to its traversing low angle nature.

stay to the right to avoid poison oak bush at base. Three bolt anchor.

The first section of A3 is a weeee bit crumbly. Cracks tend to shift when you're nailing higher up, kinda like an expanding flake if by "expanding flake" you mean a "crumbling wall."

Took a nice 8' fall onto my back and sent my partner flying off the ledge it starts on. Not the best landing to say the least. Went back up and ended up popping a rurp that was equalized with a pecker just as I got to the first set of ledges. Needless to say I had had enough and came down off a few solid cam placements. From the looks of things, I'd say that the rest is pretty chill since the crack is continuous and looked relatively solid (from a Pinnacles standard)

I'll apply the phrase I've heard about sandstone to the volcanic stuff found at the Pinnacles: Never take it for granite.

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Came back later and sent the beast over three hours. Bring screamers and clean rack for everything after the first few moves (those should go clean as C3ish.)

a bit heady at the start. first bolt is about 10 ft up and the rusted hanger looks like its seen better days. If you blow the hook move after the first bolt it'd be a fun trip to see how the bolt does. I placed a screamer on the bolt and felt a bit better because of it.

about as C1 as it gets.

Pulled most of the fixed heads and removed most of the deadheads. Left enough that if anyone wants to do it as a fixed head ladder they can, can't see why anyone would want to though.
Two hook moves above last bolt are all that's needed. Three fat bolts on top to set a TR. Rap from the rings at the top of Rurp Romp.

Route can go clean after the first bolt, offset nuts and offset cams needed. Only three head placements (out of four) needed below the first bolt. (Was able to hook past the third fixed head)

C2F or 5.9 C1F